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When curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might expect familiar award-winning names. However, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest shop securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.